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X OURINO 
1 EUROPE 
ON TWO 
HUNDRED 
DOLLARS 



Harold Cooper 



Touring Europe on Two 
Hundred Dollars 




SECOND EDITION 



copyrighted 1912 by marold cooper 



3 <M>1 



4CI.A30D819 




/ CONTENTS \ 



I 1. The 
b<) 2. Engh 



1. The Voyage 
land 

3. France 

4. Switzerland 

5. Italy 

6. Expenses 



Page 5 



°i 



21 
28 
32 

48 




SINCERELY YOURS. 

Harold Cooper 



XLhc Dosage 

We are indebted to Mr. Dooley for the 
remark, which is a criticism on education 
of a certain type, ' ' Today the college presi- 
dent takes the young man into a Turkish 
room, and gives him a cigarette and says, 
"Now, my dear boy, what branch of 
Taming would ye like to have studied for 
ye by one of our compitint professors V " 

One of the best means of education is 
travel. The man who is permitted to 
meet the various kinds of people who live 
under varied conditions gains an education 
which is foreign to the class room or col- 
lege hall. Yet to most of us this privilege 
of travel is denied. The workshop, the 
farm, the business house or the home keeps 
us busy and Father Time does not permit 
us to travel. Or, perhaps, funds are limited. 
It is for the latter that this booklet conveys 
its message. 

Most travelers hurriedly take the 
steamer at New York and sail directly out 
to the ocean. The most enjoyable way to 
me is by Niagara Falls and Quebec . Quebec 
stands upon a rocky prominence known as 



TOURING EUROPE ON 



Cape Diamond, and from its summit you 
look down upon the St. Lawrence and the 
St. Charles rivers while in the distance are 
seen the outlines of the Laurentian Moun- 
tains. Dickens visited this city and wrote 
"The impression made upon the visitor by 
this (Gibraltar of America, its giddy 
heights, its citadel suspended as it were in 
the air, its picturesque steep streets, and the 
splendid views which burst upon the eye at 
every turn is at once unique and lasting. 
It is a place never to be forgotten. " Here 
at this place where Montcalm and Wolfe 
fought for the supremacy of America we 
take our steamer . The gangway is drawn 
in, the gong is sounded, and the vessel 
steams down the river toward the Atlantic 
leaving our friends upon the shore, their 
handkerchiefs waving in the air. 

Passing by little French- Canadian vil- 
lages, or some little lighthouse built on a 
small pier, at last we reach the rocky 
coasts of Newfoundland or the Labrador, 
and then "we are out on the ocean sailing" 
with a voyage of three thousand miles be- 
fore us. The steamer is like a floating 
palace for there are two thousand pas- 



TWO HUNDRED DOLLARS 



sengers aboard, and the deck is a huge 
playground where every nationality meets 
so that the voyage is not a lonely one. Im- 
promptu concerts are arranged to cheer 
the evenings when the Scotchman sings 
" Annie Laurie,' ' the Irishman "Killar- 
ney" the Englishman "Rule Brittania," 
and the American replies with "The Star 
Spangled Banner . ' ' We are kept in touch 
with land, with the daily newspaper, the 
news of which is secured by wireless teleg- 
raphy. Modern science has given three 
methods of safe-guarding life on the ocean. 
The air tight compartments which are 
closed automatically by the captain from the 
bridge. Then there is the submarine bell 
which tells of the approach of another ves- 
sel, and also the system of wireless teleg- 
raphy. Yes, it is quite safe on a modern 
ocean liner but one can not guarantee that 
it is always pleasant. 

There are times of sadness even on the 
ocean. The winds will blow, the storms 
will dash the waves over the side of the ves- 
sel and the steamer though large will pitch 
and toss. How about the passengers? 
Well, they pitch and toss, too. With pale 



TOURING EUROPE ON 



faces they sit crouched in their chairs 
afraid they are going to die, until at last 
they begin to wish that they may die and 
thus end their unspeakable sufferings. 
The story is told of a man who was leaning 
over the side of the vessel contributing his 
share to the ocean at evening time, when 
the Captain approached and said, "Are 
you waiting for the moon to come up?" 
"Dear me, dear me," he replied, "does 
that have to come up too?" 

At last we sight the coasts of Ireland, 
and ere long the steamer in anchored in 
the harbor of Queenstown where our witty 
Irish friends who have added mirth to the 
voyage are placed on board the little ten- 
der which comes alongside and in it carried 
to the "Emerald Isle." 



JJ 



Englanb 



Next morning the vessel is anchored by 
the St. Georges Landing Stage in Liver- 
pool. This landing stage which is ac- 
knowledged to be the finest in the world, 
presents a spectacle worthy of attention. 
Mothers waiting for their sons who have 
been in the land of opportunity and are re- 
turning with their fortunes . Business men 
waiting to converse with their American 
agents concerning their speculations. All 
is hurry and worry. The meeting of 
friends, the passing of customs and the 
gathering of baggage . 

We hurry to the station. No long cor- 
ridor train awaits us ; not a Pullman car in 
sight; only small compartment cars which 
are like the cabs of an American city. No 
conductor travels with the train and as the 
train left the city one of the porters locked 
our door. When the destination was 
reached to our surprise no one came to un- 
lock the door and there was danger of be- 
ing carried beyond our destination. We 
threw the baggage through the window and 
followed after it. 



10 TOURING EUROPE ON 

It is only a few miles from Liverpool to 
the castle known as Hawarden castle which 
was the home of William Ewart Gladstone. 
What a number who were born in the same 
year as this man. Tennyson, Chopin, Men- 
delssohn, Edgar Allan Poe, Oliver Wendell 
Holmes, Abraham Lincoln and last but not 
least, Gladstone. As a wise statesman, a 
brilliant writer and above all a man of fine 
Christian character he has become known 
to us as the "grand old man of the nine- 
teenth century." His greatest opponent 
in the House of Commons was Benjamin 
Disraeli the Earl of Beaconfield, who was a 
Jew by birth . At one time a sneering re- 
mark was made about Disraeli's Jewish an- 
cestry. He slowly arose and said, "The 
man across the house has sneeringly said 
that I am a Jew . I am a Jew, but I would 
have the honorable gentleman to remem- 
ber that while his ancestry were naked 
savages on the banks of the Thames, mine 
were kings and priests in Solomon's tem- 
ple." Such was the man who opposed 
Gladstone, but in spite of such opposition 
he bravely stood his ground and now his 
name is among the most beloved in Eng- 



TWO HUNDRED DOLLARS 11 

land. Two hours on the train and we are 
nearing Stratford on Avon the home and 
birthplace of the immortal Shakespeare. 
The house where the poet was born is still 
shown to wondering tourists who listen to 
the many incidents which are related by the 
guides who speak in parrot-like tones . Af- 
ter reading the dramas of this bard, 
especially the love story of Romeo and 
Juliet one can not help but wonder how the 
poet courted his beautiful Anne Hathaway. 
The cottage where she lived is the admira- 
tion of all. Lovers of Shakespeare may 
attend the plays in the Shakespeare Me- 
morial theatre where talented actors bring 
to life the characters portrayed in his 
writings . 

This is the very center of England and 
many delightful excursions may be ar- 
ranged from this place. Not far away 
stand the ruins of Kennilworth made 
famous by the writings of Sir Walter 
Scott, or one may go to Warwick castle 
which is also in this locality. Among the 
peaks of Derbyshire there are two delight- 
ful halls which we can not afford to miss. 
Passing through ideal English scenery, 



12 TOURING EUROPE ON 

farms carefully cultivated and hills cov- 
ered with trees, we reach the residence of 
the Duke of Devonshire known as Chats- 
worth Hall. This is considered to be the 
most beautiful mansion in England. Sur- 
rounded by parks in which deer abound 
it is 

" A thing of beauty and a joy forever. ' ' 
Visitors are permitted to inspect the 
grounds under the leadership of a guide. 
Our guide led us to a weeping willow tree 
and called our attention to the fact that it 
bore no leaves though all the other trees 
were rich with foliage. We assembled 
under the tree when lo from every branch 
there poured forth a stream of water. It 
was a tree made of steel and every branch 
was connected with the main waterpipe. 
What spluttering! What laughter! It is 
needless to say that if ever you visit Chats- 
worth Hall you will beware of the weeping 
willow tree. It is only five miles from Chats- 
worth to Haddon Hall . Probably you ha vo 
read the book entitled, "Dorothy Vernon 
of Haddon Hall.' ? 

In the banqueting room our attention is 
called to a little iron bracket. This was 



TWO HUNDRED DOLLARS 13 

used in the "days of merrie England" 
when knights and others would gather in 
this hall as gnests of the owner. Should a 
guest refuse to drink his quantity of liquor 
his arm was fastened to this bracket and 
the liquor which he refused to pour down 
his throat was poured down his sleeve. It 
was homes likes Chatsworth and Haddon 
which prompted Mrs. Hemans to write: 

"The stately homes of England, 

How beautiful they stand! 
Amidst their tall ancestral trees, 

O'er all the pleasant land. 
The deer across their greenward bound. 

Through shades and sunny gleam, 
And the swan glides past them with the 
sound 

Of some rejoicing stream. " 

Reaching London we are greeted at the 
station by the cry, "Han'som, Sir!" The 
man does not mean to flatter us, nor is he 
telling us an untruth, simply asking if we 
desire a han'som cab to convey us to the 
hotel in the city. In this gondola of the 
London streets we pass down Fleet street 



14 TOURING EUROPE ON 

by Temple Bar until we come to the very- 
heart of London in Trafalgar square. 
"What is that great monument rising one 
hundred and forty-five feet in the air? The 
English school boy proudly tells that it 
is in memory of Nelson the hero of Trafal- 
gar. It was off Cape Trafalgar that Nel- 
son defeated the plans of Napoleon. In the 
heat of the battle Nelson was killed, but not 
until he had signalled the finest sentiment 
ever signalled from the mast of a flagship, 
' ' England expects every man this day to do 
his duty . ' ' Around this monument are 
seen four bronze lions, the emblem of this 
aggressive nation while in the background 
may be seen the buildings of the National 
Art Gallery. 

The three most attractive places to me 
are the Tower of London, St. Paul's 
Cathedral and Westminster Abbey. The 
Tower of London has served many pur- 
poses. At one time it was a royal resi- 
dence, at another it was used as a prison, 
now it is a sort of military barracks. 
Around it as a prison most of its interest 
lies. Here Eichard the Second resigned 
his crown. Here the two boys, Edward 



TWO HUNDRED DOLLARS 15 

the Fifth and Richard of York, were 
smothered and buried under the stairs of 
the White Tower. It was here that Sir 
Walter Ealeigh wrote his history of the 
world while undergoing imprisonment. 

The crown jewels are now kept in one 
of the buildings and visitors may see these 
gems which are beyond human compre- 
hension in value. The guards of these 
jewels are popularly called "Beef-eaters" 
and generally selected from among the 
"Soldiers of the king" who have fought in 
the wars . It is not far from the tower of 
London to St. Paul's Cathedral and instead 
of taking the "Han'som cab" we travel 
on one of the old fashioned omnibuses for 
which London is noted. In fact the best 
way to see London is from the top of an 
omnibus especially if seated near the driver 
who will point out the places of interest to 
the stranger. These relics of eighteenth 
century travel soon bring us to the famous 
Cathedral of St. Pauls. A huge Gothic 
structure so magnificent that words fail us 
in an attempt to describe. Built in 1710 
it stands as a monument to the remarkable 
architectural ability of Sir Christopher 



16 TOURING EUROPE ON 

Wren. At a cost of over fifteen million 
dollars this Cathedral reveals the strength 
of English Episcopalianism . 

Passing through its spacious doors we 
are amazed at its magnificence. With glow- 
ing language and eloquent voice we mi^ht 
speak of its mighty columns. We might 
paint a word picture of the reredos with 
which the altar is decorated, hut after elo- 
quent and glowing description one has fail- 
ed to do it justice. It is the finest piece 
of architecture in the city of London and 
while it will not compare with St. Peters at 
Eome yet it is a sanctuary of which London 
might well he proud. From St. Paul's we 
journey on the omnihus down Ludgate Hill 
toward the famous London Bridge. Here 
the citizen of no mean city is actually 
seen. It is market time and the. bridge is 
crowded with hundreds who are hurrying 
to the near-by market with their produce . 
And what a medley of strange voices falls 
upon our ear. Each salesman is doing all 
in his power to sell his wares and the air is 
filled with cries of every description. 
"Chestnuts all 'ot, a penny a score.' ' 
1 ' Tuppence a pound grapes. ' ' ' ' Who '11 buy 



TWO HUNDRED DOLLARS 17 

a bonnet for f ourpence ! ' ' "Three a penny, 
Yarmouth Bloaters." Thus do the toil- 
ing masses of London strive and battle for 
the common necessities of life . Along the 
Thames Embankment from London Bridge 
we wind our way to the Houses of Parlia- 
ment. Through avenues of trees we pass 
a long line of splendid buildings. The 
greenery of the Temple Gardens, the noble 
lines of Somerset House, the bold span of 
Blackfriars bridge, and at last the Houses 
of Parliament, all presenting the eye with 
a view of the magnificence of this the rich- 
est city on earth . 

Across the street from the Houses of 
Parliament may be seen the famous Abbey 
of Westminster . To a. student of history 
there is nothing more inspiring than a view 
of this grand old abbey . Every step teems 
with historical illustrations . In one of its 
little chapels you may see with but half a 
dozen steps the graves of Charles the Sec- 
ond, William and Mary and Queene Anne 
and her consort, Prince George. And all 
around are great Lords, illustrious states- 
men, famous soldiers and renowned poets. 
Pitt, Fox, Burke, Newton, Wilberforce and 



18 TOURING EUROPE ON 

Gladstone— names forever glorious— are 
here enshrined in the greatest sepulchre on 
earth. Our feet tread softly as encircled 
by these hallowed walls we pace in solemn 
meditation, 

"Through rows of warriors and through 
walls of kings . ' ' 

In the south transcept is the poet's cor- 
ner. Here monuments are placed to the 
memory of men like Shakespeare, Tenny- 
son and Burns. 

We love to stand before that one which 
commemorates the American poet Long- 
fellow . 

Still this city with its splendid me- 
morials and its magnificent buildings pre- 
sents a background which few cities can 
equal . Of its six million inhabitants there 
are two million for whom it is little better 
than a prison or a workhouse. In this 
pleasure -loving city there are one hun- 
dred and thirty thousand paupers. Though 
hours of toil are many yet there are thous- 
ands of families earning less than 50 cents 
per day. Over five hundred thousand 



TWO HUNDRED DOLLARS 19 

homeless wanderers and twenty thousand 
beggars belong to this the richest city in 
the world, and every night in this cruel 
place six thousand persons sleep in the 
open air. It is estimated that opportuni- 
ties are so poor that one person in every 
five in the city of London will die either 
in the workhouse, the hospital or the lunatic 
asylum . 

"Hoarsely they beg of fate, 
A little lightening of their woe, 

A little time to love, to live, 

A little time to think and know. " 

One of the saddest aspects is the mis- 
erable remuneration paid for much of its 
strenuous labor. An appalling sight may 
be seen every night in the neighborhood of 
Piccadilly circus. Perhaps it was this 
scene that caused one of England's poets 
to call London "A city very much like 
hell. ' ' An incident is called to mind which 
happened in connection with a church in 
this city. A party of boys was taken from 
the slums out into ( God's open air into 
the green fields. They had never seen grass 



20 TOURING EUROPE ON 

before. One boy caught a butterfly. It 
was carefully placed in a box for the night. 
Next morning he crept very anxiously to 
the box where the butterfly was kept . What 
a disappointment it was ! He had never seen 
a butterfly before, and he had expected to 
see a pad of butter with a cow sitting on 
top. 

Ere leaving England we must visit 
Windsor castle and from there go to the old 
church at Stoke Pogis. It was in this 
church yard that Gray wrote his " Elegy 
in a country church yard, ' ' the poem which 
has made his name immortal. For seven 
years the poet worked on this poem and 
many are ready to concede to it the first 
place in English literature. It is said 
that the night before the capture of Quebec 
Wolfe, the English general, read this poem 
to the soldiers as they were gathered 
around the camp fire, and then said, "I 
would rather be the author of that poem 
than capture Quebec." 



jfrance 



Paris is the city of pleasure. We have 
left behind us the city of commerce on the 
banks of the Thames. But in Paris we 
leave dull care and follow the goddess of 
pleasure as she leads us to shrines where 
we gladly worship. The first place that 
the traveler seeks in this city is the Place 
de la Concorde. One could hardly con- 
ceive of a finer or more beautiful place in 
Europe. On one hand are the Gardens of 
the Tuileries, before us the bridge across 
the Seine, while on every side are beautiful 
buildings and lovely gardens . Though we 
call it the Place de la Concorde or the Place 
of Peace one can not forget the terrible 
scenes which have been enacted on this 
square . It was formerly called the Place 
de la Revolution owing to the fact that 
many of the awful incidents in connection 
with the French revolution happened there. 
The names of Marie Antoinette and Louis 
the Fifteenth flash through our minds as 
we stand in this square, the center of Paris. 
The hideous guillotine was the center of at- 
traction in those days, for thousands of the 



22 TOURING EUROPE ON 

nobles of France were executed in the Place 
de la Concorde. If these silent stones 
could only speak, their stories would not be 
of love, but of war and blood, and adorn 
the place as we will, nothing can wash away 
the memory of this hideous past. 

The student of art quickly finds his way 
from this spot full of such gloomy associa- 
tions to the palace of art known as the 
Louvre. In this gallery one could walk 
all day through long rows of artistic paint- 
ings by the best artists of the old world and 
the new. Now you stumble upon a Rap- 
hael or a Titian, again you are confronted 
with the works of Corregio or Murillo. 
There are two gems which strongly ap 
pealed to us . One was the painting of the 
"Immaculate Conception " by Murillo. It 
remains like a photograph flashed upon the 
film of the mind and one can easily wish 
that it may never fade away. 

The second gem is that of the Venus de 
Milo. Until the year 1820 this statue was 
buried among the ruins on the island of 
Melos in the Medditerranean . At first 
glance one is apt to be dissapointed. Fath- 
er time has left his marks upon the statue, 



TWO HUNDRED DOLLARS 23 

but the second visit amply repays, for then 
you begin to notice the delicate curves, and 
at last you worship as an admirer of the 
art which belongs to the past. 

It is evening time and we take a drive 
along the charming boulevards of this 
pleasure-loving city. How naturally we, 
tell the driver to take us along the Champs 
Elysees to the park of the Bois de Boulong. 
"Can this be paradise,'' you exclaim. 
You lean back in your carriage and breathe 
in the refreshing air as you pass by the 
Arch de Triomphe. How easy it is to 
dream of Napoleon. You can not separate 
his name from Paris and though the city is 
teeming with gaiety and life, still the 
memory of the lonely prisoner on the Island 
of St. Helena will cross the mind. Ac- 
cordingly we instruct our cabby in our 
broken French to take us to the Tomb of 
Napoleon. It is now the twilight of the 
evening, and as we enter this place a 
bluish light casts its glow over where the 
tomb of the soldier of fortune is seen. Me 
thinks that should that cold dead form be 
animated with life that all France would 
follow his banner, for though we question 



24 TOURING EUROPE ON 

his integrity, still we must remember that 
never was Prance so close to being the 
conqueror of the world as when the Corsi- 
can led her armies to war and to victory. 

Every great city points with pride to its 
Cathedrals and churches. One city vies 
with another in presenting to the wonder- 
ing eye the ideal sanctuary for the worship 
of God. 

But there is something different about 
the church of the La Madeleine. You are 
reminded of Athens and the Acropolis . Its 
style is Grecian, being built in the form of 
a 'Greek temple with a splendid colonnade 
around it of fifty-two Corinthian pillars. 
Colossal statues of saints adorn the niches 
in the walls, while the sculptured pediment 
on the southern front is the largest in ex- 
istence . 

But inseparably connected with Paris 
is the church of Notre Dame. It stands 
upon an island in the Seine at which placo 
the present city of Paris was born. The 
old bell ringer, "The Hunchback of Notre 
Dame" may not be seen, though immortal- 
ized by Victor Hugo, but let the mind wan- 
der and lo there comes an array of kings 



TWO HUNDRED DOLLARS 25 

and nobles. It is to Paris what West- 
minster Abbey is to London . Magnificent 
weddings and great funerals mark its his- 
tory. Humanity has been wedded and 
has closed its eyes in death, but still this old 
church stands with its cross pointing to 
heaven and to God. 

But all is not gold that glitters . Paris 
is the City Beautiful but our memories are 
carried to the hotel keeper who took care 
of us or rather our money while viewing 
this city. It was the day of departure and 
in dignified manner we called for the bills 
with the various items enumerated. This 
was our first experience with foreign hotel 
keepers and we were greenhorns from a 
world across the sea. What is this item 
and that? But explanation was not forth- 
coming until at last we demanded the pres- 
ence of the interpreter. Even this man 
seemed unwilling to unravel the mysteries 
of a hotel bill until we insisted so that he 
could not refuse. "0, that item is for 
wine," he said. Wine? When did we con- 
sume any wine? 0, you remember the 
night when you went driving, the hotel 
keeper came into the cab and went with 



26 TOURING EUROPE ON 

you." We did not invite him and would 
rather have had him stay at home. Occa- 
sionally he went to a cafe and ordered 
wines for himself and lo ! to our astonish- 
ment he had charged this item on our bills. 
Whether he had been in an American cy- 
clone before or not can not be stated, but he 
certainly got the full benefit of one that 
day. But he who laughs last laughs best. 
We did not pay for the wine, but as we 
called for the cab we ordered him to take 
us to a station in one part of the city, but 
just as we were starting the interpre- 
ter called another station in the French 
language so that two of our friends were 
taken several miles out of their way. And 
the joke is greater when we remember that 
in Paris you pay for the distance you ride 
These cabs are called taximeter cabs and a 
little clock registers the amount to be paid 
according to the distance. 

Paris boasts of the finest opera house in 
the world. It is seen in the distance as 
you walk down the Avenue de la Opera. 
This is the meeting place for this music- 
loving city. Not far from the city and 
certainly worthy of a visit is the Palace of 



TWO HUNDRED DOLLARS 27 

Versailles. Buckingham Palace and 
Chats worth Hall fade in comparison with 
this mansion and former residence of 
royalty. It was at this place where the 
beautiful Marie Antoinette won and lost the 
esteem of the people of France. The Bour- 
bon lilies grew to perfection in Versailles 
until they were ruthlessly plucked by the 
cruel hands of the revolutionists. It is 
easy to picture Marie Antoinette walking 
along these lanes with minature lakes, the 
green grass, and the stately trees on every 
side. 




Swit3crlanb 



Leaving Paris and La Belle France be- 
hind we are hurried in our little train to 
the Alps and Switzerland. We enter this 
meeting place of tourists through the city 
of Lausanne on the banks of Lake Geneva. 

Now we are surrounded by mountains 
covered with snow in the midst of summer, 
when the lake is like a mirror reflecting the 
noble lines of the monarchs of the alps. 

On one side we recognize the Castle of 
Chillon which has been immortalized by 
the poet, Byron. It is easy to bring to 
mind the words of the poet as in this place 

"My hair is gray, but not with years, 
Nor grew it white in a single night, 
As men's have grown from sudden fears." 

Then looking from the cell of this pris- 
oner we notice 

"Lake Leman lies by Chillon 's walls, 
A thousand feet in depth below 
Its massy waters meet and flow. " 




VIEW OF LUGANO 




LAKE OF NEUCHATEL. SWITZERLAND 







>.. £ f^ 


! 


% 


7 


' i A 




■b^^AJ 










1 








^M 'Ji 



TWO HUNDRED DOLLARS 29 

It is a joy to travel in this land of moun- 
tains and lakes . All the citizens seem to 
combine in an effort to make your vacation 
delightful. The railroads are clean and 
safe, the hotels are among the finest in the 
world, the people are honest and reliable 
while even the Almighty has fashioned the 
country and made the ideal place for a va- 
cation . It is not necessary for us to walk 
the rugged paths to the summit of the 
mountain. Man's ingenuity has mastered 
this difficulty and we take our seats in the 
little trains and for a time we are ascending 
the mountain side while the engine puffs 
its steam into the air in its perilous jour- 
ney. 

How many excursions we can take. 
Here is Mt. Pilatus smiling down on the 
Lake of Lucerne. Then we must go to 
Interlaken and the Grindlewald Glacier. 
But we selected the little village of Zer- 
matt while in this land of mountains . The 
approach to Zermatt is on one of the cog 
and pinion railroads which wind around 
and around past deep chasms, snow white 
mountains until at last a sharp turn is made 
and behold then the Matterhorn, the mon 



30 TOURING EUROPE ON 

arch of the Alps. From our hotel window 
could be seen this King in his beauty, 
whose hoary head was crowned with per- 
petual snow. It is evening time, and you 
have wrapped yourself in your coats, for it 
is cold. The moon is shining as you walk 
the narrow, quaint old streets, gazing in 
rapture and wonder upon this beautiful 
scene . 

"The night has a thousand eyes, 

And the day but one, 
Yet the light of the bright world dies. 

With the setting sun! 

The mind has a thousand eyes, 

And the heart but one; 
Yet the light of a whole life dies 

When love is done!" 

Be that as it may, there is something 
about the dim twilight of the evening which 
appeals to the heart when surrounded with 
such an environment as this. There are 
those who say that there is no God. But 
how can one withhold worship in the pres- 
ence of such manifestations of His power? 
One is tempted to think of the old Methodist 



TWO HUNDRED DOLLARS 31 

preacher who preached in his church from 
the text, "The fool hath said in his heart, 
there is no GTod . ' ' He said there are 
three points to the text. First, What he 
said, "There is no Grod." Second, where 
he said it. "In his heart." And third, 
"Why he said it." "Because he was a 
fool." 




Htal£ 



Over the Alps lies Italy, and you may 
either go through the Alps or you may take 
the longer way of driving in a carriage. 
Two great tunnels have been excavated 
and a quick passenger train will speedily 
bring you under Italian skies. These tun- 
nels have been excavated at an enormous 
cost and are known as the St. Gotthard and 
the Simplon tunnels, but we decided, and 
wisely so, to take the road over the Alps. 
A private carriage was hired and with three 
horses the journey was commenced over 
the Simplon Pass which is considered to be 
the most beautiful. Leaving the hotel in 
the valley soon after sunrise, the splendid 
road wound around the mountain until af- 
ter traveling several hours we still seemed 
to be just above the little village from 
which the start was made. Now passing- 
Swiss waterfalls, and again, though the 
last day of July, snow was thrown at each 
other for amusement. It seemed at time? 
that we were going up into the clouds and 
in fact the rare privilege was enjoyed of 
watching a thunder storm below in the val- 



TWO HUNDRED DOLLARS 33 

ley from above the storm clouds . The car 
riage stopped at a splendid Swiss hotel at 
the summit after journeying about twenty 
miles, and four hungry people went into 
the dining room ready for a good hearty 
meal. Though so far from the base of 
supplies they served a splendid course din- 
ner for the small sum of four francs, or 
eighty cents in American money . One can 
not help but praise Switzerland for its 
good hotels . Go where you will you dis- 
cover large airy rooms, good cooking and 
all at reasonable prices. 

I wandered around the hotel after 
lunch . A man was attending to the horses 
and we found that he could speak broken 
English . ' ' You from America 1 ' ' he said. 
"Me been to America; me only get sixty 
cents per day here; me get $1.75 in Pitts 
burg; me go back to Pittsburg this fall. " 
American wages is the honey pot which 
draws the European flies. The journey 
was resumed after the horses had rested 
and now began the descent into sunny 
Italy. On one side was one of the Hos- 
pices for travelers where the monks abide 
and one could almost see the dogs in imagi- 



34 TOURING EUROPE ON 

nation which go out to seek for men who 
have lost their way in the snow. The car 
riage passed through long narrow ravines 
where it seemed as though the rocks would 
fall upon us, then again we saw the result? 
of an avalanche which seemed as though 
half of a mountain had been carried away 
some two or three miles. At last tired, 
but happy, we reached the quaint little 
place in Italy called Dommodossala. "Can 
this be a sample of Italian hotels," we said 
as we were seated at the table in the hotel 
in this village ! Our hearts sank within us. 
0, the smell of garlick! It was in every- 
thing. You could smell it in the rooms- 
nay, even the atmosphere seemed tc be 
charged with those spicy garlick smells. 
"Can this be sunny Italy of which we have 
dreamt T" A sigh of relief escaped as we 
reached our fine hotel in the city of Milan 
next day. It was a large, well built place 
and the service was all that could be de- 
sired. Our time was limited so we went 
to see the famous Cathedral which is said 
to be the largest in the world and to hold 
over forty thousand people. 

But we must leave it behind us, for is 



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TWO HUNDRED DOLLARS 35 

not fair Venetia, the Queen of the Adriatic, 
awaiting us f A few hours on the train and 
then we approached this city of wa- 
ters. At the entrance to the sta- 
tion the gondola is ready and our baggage 
being placed in one end, we sink back to 
dream of the days when this city of canals 
was in its glory. Ah, there is a familiar 
sight . It is the bridge of the Rialto . We 
pass underneath, holding our nostrils foi 
we are near the fish market, and ere long 
we are taken to the bay and the entrance to 
the grand canal where we find rooms await 
ing us . 

The best time to enjoy Venice is in the 
twilight of the evening. Then you can not 
see the marks that Father time has drawn 
across its old palaces. You tell your gon- 
dolier to take you out to the bay . He knows 
your wish and gracefully and swiftly 
brings the black gondola to a large music 
boat in the center of the bay. By and by 
other gondolas come alongside until per-, 
haps there are about thirty tied co the 
music boat. Then you lean back with 
"dreamful eyes, under the walls of para- 
dise . ' ' The rich soft voices of the seno- 



36 TOURING EUROPE ON 

ritas sound like music from a heavenly 
shore as you listen to it on the bay at 
Venice. There is a pause in the music 
and we call out, "Can you sing II Trova- 
tore? We want La Miserere." The 
violins are tuned and the others fall into 
harmony and then the beautiful singer son 
those rich strains from that masterpiece o f 
music by Verdi . In the distance were the 
lights of this Venetian city, the calm Italic 
breeze blew softly upon our cheeks, and 
our minds wandered to that heavenly shore 
of which we read in the good old Book. 

In Italy one must never pay the price 
asked. They would think you foolish if 
you did. The Italian loves to bargain. 
And if you wait long enough you will prob- 
ably purchase the article you desire at 
about fifty per cent of the price asked . I 
saw a pretty knife with a pearl handle, sev- 
eral blades and a scissors. How much? 
"Seven francs" was the reply. "I will 
give you three francs and a half." "Oh, 
no! impossible!' he replied. Then we com- 
menced to go, but before we had left the 
little store he offered me the knife for 



TWO HUNDRED DOLLARS 37 

exactly what I had offered. Three francs 
and a half, or seventy cents. 

Our next stop is at Florence.. Every 
city which we visit has a distinct person- 
ality. The city of commerce is either 
New York or London, Paris is the city of 
pleasure, but Florence is the city of art. 
How easy it is to sit on the hill of San 
Miniato and dream. You draw a circle 
on the ground with your magic wand. 
You boil your caldron on the fire of sticks 
and uttering wild incantations your mind is 
bewitched until the past comes before your 
eyes and you see the men who have made 
Florence so to be desired . Here is Dante 
and you can see him as he falls in love with 
the beautiful Beatrice dressed in noble 
crimson. You listen to his sonnets of love 
as his very soul is uplifted by the beauty 
and nobility of her character, for Beatrice 
was to Dante what Highland Mary was to 
Robert Burns . 

But Dante is not alone in this city of 
art. It was here that Michael Angelo took 
that piece of marble which was thrown 
away and from it brought forth that mas 
terpiece known as David, still to be seen in 



38 TOURING EUROPE ON 

the Academy of Arts. Then you think of 
Leanordo de Vinci and Fra Angel ico and 
a host of others who have made this city 
glorious. But that lonely figure of Sa- 
vonorola stands before me, the martyr 
saint of Florence. My mind wanders 
through George Eliot's "Romola" and I 
see the man who preached Jesus Christ as 
the King of Florence. The treacherous 
Tito wins the heart of the queen of the 
Villa de Bardi . And at last the man who 
has been scorned seizes his victim on the 
banks of the river. The square is hideous 
with the cries of the populace as the 
preacher of San Marco, Savonorola, is 
burned at the stake in this city of art . 

"But humanity sweeps onward, where to- 
day the martyr stands, 
On the morrow crouches Judas with the 
silver in his hands ; 

Far in front the cross stands ready and the 
crackling fagots burn, 
While the hooting mob of yesterday in 
silent awe return 

To glean up the scattered ashes into his- 
tory 's golden urn . ' ' 



TWO HUNDRED DOLLARS 39 

And now the visitor is shown the Palace 
Vecchio where this saint was imprisoned 
before his martyrdom. In the Uffizzi 
Palace there is a room called the Tribune, 
in which are seen priceless gems of art. 
Here is seen the rival of the queen of the 
Louvre the " Venus de Medici/' and th 
wall is covered with works of art of which 
we have read from childhood's day. 

Near the hotel is the church of Santa 
Croce and no visitor can afford to miss this 
place for many of the noblest of Floren- 
tines are buried here . The statue of Dante 
adorns the place in front. No wonder that 
Mrs. Browning desired to be buried in this 
city surrounded by such names as those 
which are read upon these memorials. It 
is with reluctance that we leave Florence 
behind. "We bid thee farewell, Flor- 
ence, but time may come and time may go, 
but never from our hearts will be effaced 
the memory of thy glory. Nestling like a 
diamond in a necklace of jewels thy beauty 
doth outshine them all, and to the tired 
mind of man weary of the roar and toil of 
life thy life is like sweet rest, refreshing 
and uplifting . ' ' 



40 TOURING EUROPE ON 

"We, wearing but the garland of a day, 
Cast at thy feet one flower that fades 
away. ' ' 

And then comes Rome. The Rome of 
the Ceasers, the eternal city. Sometimes 
we have trouble at the depot to get our 
tickets. We can not speak Italian and the 
agent can not speak English . We are like 
the Irishman who had never traveled on a 
train. He did not know how to purchase 
a ticket so he followed a lady . He saw her 
place her money before the agent and say, 
"Maryhill, single," that is she wanted a 
ticket one way to Maryhill. Pat followed 
and placing the money before the agent 
said, "Patrick Murphy, married." 

We had three engines on the train go- 
ing to Rome, but as we ascended the hill we 
stopped and a message had to be sent to 
the city for a fourth engine to pull the train 
into the city. There is so much to see in 
Rome that one can only take a hurried 
glance. The old Tiber rolls on in spite 
of the changes that occur all around. One 
would expect Rome to be a city of Ruins 
but while the ruins are to be seen in the 



TWO HUNDRED DOLLARS 41 

Forum or on the Palatine Hill yet Rome is 
modern in every respect. It was in this 
city that I sought out a barber to cut my 
locks. At last I found a place which looked 
good and I signed to the man at the chair 
that I desired to have my hair cut. The 
problem then was to tell him that I did not 
want much taken off, but in spite of my 
signs he failed to understand. At last in 
desperation I called for the scissors and 
cutting a long hair and a short one I laid 
them side by side and pointed to the short 
one thinking that he would understand that 
I did not want much cut off . Then I leaned 
back in contentment, but horrors! He had 
misunderstood the sign and taken it to 
mean that I desired a great deal cut off in 
some places and not much in others. So 
When he got through I discovered that I 
had a corrugated roof. 

As the Place de la Concorde is the cen- 
ter of Paris so St. Peter's Square is the 
center of Rome. We had seen churches 
and cathedrals everywhere and were some- 
what tired of them, but entering the 
famous Cathedral of St. Peter's we held 
our breath with amazement. Other cathed- 



42 TOURING EUROPE ON 

rals revealed the marks of age. Those in 
London were covered with a kind of soot. 
Even Notre Dame in Paris was dark and 
dismal. St. Mark's at Venice, was al- 
most dilapidated with its uneven floor, but 
this one at Rome looked as though it had 
just been completed. The approach to the* 
Cathedral is magnificent. On each side 
are curving colonnades reminding one of a 
Grecian city. Westminster Abbey is the 
burial ground of kings. St. Peter's is the 
burial place of Popes, and the great treas- 
ure which this Cathedral guards is that of 
the tomb of the fisherman to whom Jesus 
said, "Thou are Peter and upon this rock 
I will build my church . ' ' Whether this is 
the actual body of Peter is a disputed ques- 
tion . In one part of the Cathedral there 
is a bronze statue of the Apostle and al- 
most the entire toe has been kissed away 
by those who have come from afar to wor- 
ship in this place. 

It is surprising how cheap one can ride 
in a cab in an European city. You can cross 
the city for a quarter and cabs are found 
everywhere . From St. Peter 's we drive to 
the Coliseum. If a ruin may be called 



TWO HUNDRED DOLLARS 43 

beautiful then this deserves that descrip- 
tion. It is quite a leap from the present 
to the past when this mighty building was 
the theatre of ancient Rome. But our in- 
terest is awakened in the fact that here 
numberless martyrs gave their lives to 
attest their faith in their Lord. From those 
underground passages the lions wereloosed 
which quickly ended the sufferings of the 
men, women and children while the pleas- 
ure loving populace came near to ' ' see how 
a Christian can die . ' ' The gladiators of 
old Rome pass into oblivion, their achieve- 
ments are small, we do not think of them, 
but our minds are full of the days when 
Nero lighted his gardens on the Palatine 
Hill with human torches made of the bodies 
of those who followed the Galilean peasant. 
The Coliseum is as distinct and different 
from any other buildings seen in the city. 
But equally interesting is the Roman 
Forum which is in the same neighborhood. 
The great enjoyment of these places is to 
realize history. To think of those men and 
women who have played their part upon 
the stage of life and then departed, and 
standing in the Forum how many are the 



44 TOURING EUROPE ON 

names that come. One imagines the en- 
trance of Ceaser or some other great gen- 
eral in his chariot coming along the Appian 
way drawn by four white horses and at 
last passing beneath an arch of triumph 
coining into the heart of the city as a con- 
queror admired by the populace. For the 
story of these ruins is the story of military 
achievements, and the days when Rome was 
in her glory pass through the mind. 

In the same court yard as our hotel 
was an old palace called the Rospigliosi 
Palace. In one of the rooms of this old 
palace is the ceiling upon which is painted 
the ' ' Aurora . ' ' Among the crowd in the 
palace was a young man from an Ameri- 
can college. What a college boy can not 
think about is not worth thinking about. 
This young man was hunting souvenirs and 
when we were in the catacombs he man- 
aged to appropriate a tooth which had 
probably been in the mouth of some Chris- 
tian martyr. At the palace we were all 
looking at this beautiful picture. The sil- 
ence in the room could be felt though there 
were about twenty Americans there. At 
last with a feeling of reverence caused by 



TWO HUNDRED DOLLARS 45 

admiration for the "Aurora" we turned to 
a fine painting of "Adam and Eve in the 
Garden . ' ' Eve was giving to Adam what 
seemed to be an apple. The silence was 
broken by the boy who in guttral tones 
said, "Well, I guess she is handing him a 
lemon . ' ' American slang can be heard 
even in Rome. In fact when driving 
around the Coliseum we were annoyed by 
a small Italian boy who was selling post- 
cards. In spite of our repeated "No," 
he still persisted in asking us if we wanted 
to buy postcards . At last one of the party 
in desperation called out ' l Skidoo . ' ' Now 
this was something that he could under- 
stand, and pointing his small finger to us 
he replied in a squeaky voice, "TWenty- 
three for you . ' ' He had become ac- 
quainted with that much American slang. 
Our vessel sails in three days and we 
have still to see Naples . See Naples and 
die! Yes, there is danger of dying as a 
result of seeing this city. One moment 
you are in raptures over the setting of this 
jewel of Southern Italy, you rave over its 
bay with Vesuvius in the distance, then you 
are gathering your garments around you 



46 TOURING EUROPE ON 

to escape the dirt which is seen on every 
side. At Naples they protest if yon take 
your coat off in a street car, yet the chil- 
dren are often seen on the streets with only 
a garment of tan, though sometimes the 
color is much darker reminding one of the 
southern cotton fields. A peculiar thing 
about Naples is that the milkmen are not 
allowed to deliver milk. They must take 
the goats along with them and milk in the 
presence of the customer. We saw a herd 
of goats at one of the houses in one of the 
narrow streets. A lady lowered a bottle 
from a window of the third story. The 
man milked into the bottle, though 
how he managed to do it I can not say, and 
finally tied the string to the nock of the 
bottle and the lady hauled it back again. 
"Watered milk is unknown in that city of 
Naples. Naples is a center for a number 
of excursions. Capri, the Blue Grotto and 
Pompeii. We had visited Pompeii be- 
fore, under the leadership of Bulwer 
Lytton . We had seen the blind Nydia sell- 
ing her flowers to the rich young men of 
this city, but now we were permitted to see 
it in reality. Yet how silent are its streets. 



TWO HUNDRED DOLLARS 47 

No sounds of children playing, but a de- 
pressing quietness pervades the atmos- 
phere. It is the city of dreadful night, 
and we look up in wonder to the volcano so 
still at present which had suddenly en- 
veloped this city with a cloud of ashes and 
lava, and which had hidden it for centuries. 
The words of Thomas Buchanan Read 
come to us as we Wander around Naples 
or sail on the bay: 

"My soul today, 

Is far away, 
Sailing the Vesuvian bay; 

My winged boat, 

A bird afloat, 
Swims round the purple peaks remote. 

Far vague and dim, 

The Mountains swim, 
While on Vesuvius 's misty rim, 

With outstretched hands, 

The gray smoke stands, 
O'er looking the volcanic lands, 

Here Ischia smiles, 

O'er liquid miles, 
While yonder, bluest of the isles 

Calm Capri waits, 

Its sapphire gates 
Beguiling to its bright estates." 



Expenses 



But our vessel is now in the bay. We 
bid farewell to our hotel and to Sunny 
Italy for now we must journey back to the 
land of the brave and the home of the free. 
We sit on the deck as the vessel steams 
across the Medditeranean and we take our 
note books to see how much we have paid 
for this delightful trip. 

The first money saved was on the 
steamer by traveling in the second cabin. 
The very best class of people were our 
companions, school teachers, ministers and 
professional men. 

Quebec to Liverpool $ 47 . 50 

Railway Liverpool to London, via 

Shakespeare's land 4.10 

London to Paris, via Newhaven ... 6 . 40 
Paris to Lausanne, Switzerland ... 5 . 30 

Lausanne to Milan, Italy 3.15 

Mountain railway from Visp to 

Zermatt and return 5.75 

(This mountain trip is to the 

Matterhorn.) 

Milan, Italy, to Venice 4 . 33 

Venice to Florence, via Bologna. . 4.60 




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TWO HUNDRED DOLLARS 49 

Florence to Rome 4.90 

Rome to Naples and Pompeii 4.70 

Naples to New York, via 'Gibralter 57.50 
A forty mile drive over the Alps 

from Switzerland 4.25 

Total steamship and railway 

fares amounted to $152.48 

This was made possible by second cabin 
accommodations on the steamers and by 
traveling second class on the continent of 
Europe and third class in England, which 
is the way that most Americans travel 
when abroad. There are three classes and 
the average foreigner travels in the third 
class. 

Now as to hotels, etc. We avoided the 
hotels, because we found that in the pen- 
sions we could get very fine service at 
much more reasonable rates. Perhaps a 
few of these pensions might be listed here. 
They are private boarding houses of the 
very best kind : 

London. The Benson, 34 Guilford St., 
near British Museum. 

Paris. Pension Govars, Rue Lalo, 
Boulevard Lannes. 



50 TOURING EUROPE ON 

Zermatt. Pension Brei thorn, Zermatt, 
Switzerland. 

Venice, Italy, Pension Gregory, Palace 
Barbarigo, IGrand Canal . 

Florence. The Jennings, Biccioli. 

Borne. Pension Boos, 185, via Nft- 
tionale. 

Naples. Pension Pinto-Storey, Piazza 
Amedeo . 

All of these are good, and those in Italy 
exceptionally good. The splendid service 
had proved to be a constant surprise, and 
the menu was excellent. Our pension bill 
had reduced the cost of the trip so ;ru'.oh 
that we held our breath with delight as we 
looked at the following figures: 

2 days in Shakespeare Country, 

$1.50 per day $ 3.00 

5 days in London 7 . 50 

5 days in Paris, $1.40 per day. ... 7.00 
4 days in Zermatt, $1.40 per day. . 5.6(> 
1 day at Milan 1.50 

3 days in Venice, $1.40 per day. . . 4.20 

3 days in Florence 4.20 

7 days in Borne, $1.20 per day 8.40 

4 days in Naples 4.80 

Total $46.20 



TWO HUNDRED DOLLARS 51 

The trip consumed practically two 
months, and the steamers and rail and pen- 
sions all combined totaled $198.68. We 
had succeeded in making a tour of Europe 
for two hundred dollars. The prices have 
advanced a little on the steamers this last 
year, and we would have to add ten dollars 
for steamships to take the same trip, but 
other prices remain fixed, and one conclu- 
sion forced upon us was that European 
travel need not cost much unless one can 
afford to make purchases for luxuries and 
stay at the finest hotels. 

A few hints as to the method of proced- 
ure would be of interest to the reader. 
Questions are constantly being asked, such 
as the following: 

How can one secure steamship tickets? 

The following lines are all standard, and 
in writing to their agents do not fail to 
state that you want them to quote rates in 
the second cabin of the large steamers or in 
the one class cabin service. Smaller ves- 
sels have only the one class cabin service, 
which is called second cabin . 



52 TOURING EUROPE ON 

Montreal to Liverpool. Berths $50.00. 

Canadian Pacific Steamship Co., Mon- 
treal, Canada. 

Allan Steamship Co., Montreal. 
Dominion Steamship Co., Montreal. 

New York to Liverpool. Berths $50 to $55. 

The Cunard Steamship Co., New York 
City. 

The White Star Line, 9 Broadway, New 

York. 

Naples to Neiv York. Berths $67.50. 

North German Lloyd Steamship Co., 5 
Broadway, New York City. 

Hamburg American Line, New York 
City. 

The Cunard Steamship Co., New York 
City. 

The White Star Line, New York City. 

By writing to these companies and also 
consulting their local agents it will be a 
very easy matter to secure steamship ac- 
commodations at the above rates. It is 
exceedingly important to remember that 
during the rush season of summer it is al- 
most impossible to secure any good accom- 



TWO HUNDRED DOLLARS 53 

modations. Berths should be secured far 
in advance. One should commence early 
in January selecting them. A deposit of 
$10.00 will reserve any berth in the above 
cabins. Our experience taught us that 
even in March it was very difficult to secure 
the accommodations we wanted for July 
and August, owing to the tremendous busi- 
ness of the summer months. 

At any other time of the year it is an 
easy matter to secure just the kind that you 
desire. A great many people ask about 
tips on the ocean liners. It is a fact that 
great stories have been told about the 
amount demanded by stewards on vessels. 
One dollar to each steward, including the 
deck steward, the cabin steward and the 
table steward, is all that is necessary, and 
they are generally quite satisfied with that. 
In the pensions there is quite a number who 
expect to be remembered with gratuities, 
but we escaped that difficulty by giving a 
certain per cent of the bill to the manager 
of the pension and he distributed it among 
the servants. 



54 TOURING EUROPE ON 

How to Carry Mourn. 
American Express orders were very sat- 
isfactory. This company only charges 
fifty cents over the face value for each one 
hundred dollars taken, and their exchanges 
are found in every European city of note. 
]t is a good thing to have mail directed in 
care of their offices, and by so doing it will 
he possible to save unnecessary trips. 

Flow Do You Reach Your Pension? 

Write a few days in advance reserving 
your room. This is important. Have a 
card on which you have written in round 
hand the name and location of your pen- 
sion, and always take a cab from the sta- 
tion, showing this card to the cabman. 

If the list of pensions in this book is not 
sufficient, then a fine list can be secured 
from the following places: 

World's Union of Pensions, 77 Leopold- 
strasse, Munich, Bavaria. 

The Teacher's /Guild of Great Britain, 
74 Grower Street, W. C, London, England. 

Women's Rest Tour Association, 11 
Pinckney Street, Boston, Mass. 

Bv reading their literature it is no dif- 



TWO HUNDRED DOLLARS 



ficxilt matter to select a suitable place at a 
reasonable rate. Baedeker's Rooks can be 
borrowed from any public library and they 
are crammed with the best of travel infor- 
mation. Distances, fares, hotels, means 
of travel are all found here, and an ac- 
quaintance with Baedeker is worth while. 

A list of hotels and pensions in Switzer- 
land can be obtained from the agent of the 
Swiss Federal Railroad, 241 Fifth avenue, 
New York City. He will tell of a special 
Swiss railway ticket which permits un- 
limited travel for a certain length of time 
over practically all of the railways of 
Switzerland. These tickets cost as fol- 
lows: 

First class, 15 days $18.24 

Second class, 15 days 13.44 

Third class, 15 days 9.60 

They can be secured for a longer period 
of thirty or forty-five days . Information 
of all kinds concerning Swiss travel is given 
freely in answer to a letter addressed to 
this Swiss railroad agent in New York. 

Railway tickets can be purchased at 
each station, but at times one is tempted to 
lose one's temper in the process. A much 



56 TOURING EUROPE ON 

better way is to take advantage of the 

coupon tickets sold by Thomas Cook and 
Hon, of New York City. You have only to 
outline your tour and they will supply you 
with a hook of tickets which permits stop- 
over at each point of interest. These 
tickets are just as cheap as those you pur- 
chase yourselves and sometimes they are 
cheaper. On the continent of Europe an 
extra charge is made for all baggage which 
you do not take into the compartment, 
hence the necessity of simply traveling with 
a suit case. 

Speaking about railway tickets. The 
traveler who returns from Liverpool to 
New York can save $4.10 by having the re- 
turn steamship ticket read from London to 
New York. Then when in London one has 
simply to ask for a free ticket to Liverpool 
which is freely given, and which permits 
stop over at Stratford on Avon and other 
points of interest between London and 
Liverpool . 

Passports are not necessary for travel 
in Europe, though at times they may be of 
great service in securing registered letters. 
Passing the Customs abroad is a very sim- 



TWO HUNDRED DOLLARS 



pie affair, and even returning to New York 
or any American port of entry the traveler 
can bring- i n purchases to the value of $100, 
providing- that they have been purchased 
for his own use. 

Many people take a great deal of bag- 
gage on such a trip, but we took all we 
needed in suit cases, and did not suffer any 
lack. Such things as tips did not 
amount to much. It was the plan to give 
from five to ten per cent of the bill to the 
proprietor to be divided among the ser- 
vants in the pensions. The incidental ex- 
penses were very small through necessity. 
Living in a ministers family had taught 
economy. Of course one could spend g 
fortune in European travel, but 
whose means are limited < * *"!:e 

great art treasures and study the history 
of the places visited on a very limited 
amount of money. English is spoken 
throughout Europe, along the beaten track. 

Isn't is strange that Xew York should 
seem so beautiful to an incoming Ameri- 
can? Yet it does, for after all there is no 
place like home, and as you stand on the 



58 TOURING EUROPE ON 

deck of the ocean greyhound as she slowly 
enters port you think of the words of 
Henry Van Dyke : 

"For London is a man's town, there's 
power in the air, 
And Paris is a woman's town, with flow* 
ers in her hair ; 
It's fine to loaf in Venice, and great to 
study Borne, 
But when it comes to living, there is no 
place like home. 

So it's home again, and home again, 
America for me! 
My heart is turning home again, to God's 
countrie ; 
To the blessed land of room enough, be- 
yond the ocean bars, 
Where the air is full of sunshine, and the 
flag is full of stars . ' ' 



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4 °v, 









